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When I told my partner we were visiting the Riviera, his face lit up. He was already picturing the sun-warmed beaches, aperitifs in a tiny bar, dinner in a beachside bistro. When I went on to explain it was actually the Belgian Riviera, he went back to watching Time Team, shoulders hunched. The soul singer Marvin Gaye seems to have had an equally ambivalent reaction when he arrived in Ostend, on that same Riviera, in He was about to begin an improbable, yet extraordinarily fruitful two-year exile, during which he would write one of the biggest hits of his career: Sexual Healing.

But before we paid homage to Gaye, we wanted to explore the coast. It may not have the Med, but Belgium does have miles of golden sand, 42 to be precise: running from the chichi-on-sea town of Knokke-Heist on the Dutch border to the dramatic Saharan-style dunes of De Panne on the French border. It runs every 10 minutes throughout the summer months 20 minutes during winterhas 70 stops, and allows you to explore an area rich not just in natural beauty but in key war sites, Surrealism and the sanctuaries of some influential refugees.

Port-side paintings in Ostend. The character and history of the Flanders coastline changes as you travel its length, but the one unifying factor is its dunes. And they are glorious — nowhere more so than at De Panne, where they stretch for miles in wonderful solemn bleakness.

Bright white and wind-whipped, the sand has a feral quality, attacking our skin like clouds of furious insects. The Kusttram coastal tram is integral to many of the historic attractions along its Knokke-Heist adult sex. Wounded soldiers were Knokke-Heist adult sex on the tram during the First World War, and from the Thirties onwards it made the coast accessible and affordable to all — hence Blackpoolesque Blankenberge and, more recently Plopsaland, the immensely popular if improbably named family theme-park in De Panne.

Sun-worshipping on the Belgian Riviera.

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These days the tram is a sleek, efficient affair, and we step off in the centre of Koksijde to meet Linda Ticker, a volunteer guide with the excellent Belgian Coastal Greeter service. The area was named after colonial troops stationed there during the First World War, protecting all-important Newport just up the coast.

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On the short tram ride to Newport Nieuwpoortthe wide flat beach is framed by giant grass-stubbled dunes and hugged by an inviting- looking cycle path. Newport is the biggest marina in northern Europe, and the only place on the coast where inland waterways connect to the open sea. During the First World War its strategic importance and role in repelling German forces locals opened the Ganzenpoot locks, flooding the interior and forcing the German army to retreat led to 98 per cent of the town being obliterated in bombing raids. This is commemorated by the striking King Albert I monument, from where we start our bike ride along the wide, recently completed promenade, which connects the reconstructed medieval centre to the marina.

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The sense of war follows us later that day, when on the outskirts of Ostend we see huge anti-aircraft guns poking alarmingly from the dunes. There are 60 bunkers, a mile of trenches and underground tunnels. Rommel personally inspected this section inand among the displays is the accordion he left: his customary badge of approval. The jarring sight somehow prepares us for arriving in Ostend which, after the delightful small-town pace of De Panne, Koksijde and Newport, feels joltingly busy and gritty. A cold rain blows in from the North Sea as we pass the dock where Gaye first disembarked, as on our Knokke-Heist adult sex iPods we watch footage of the singer huddled on the deck of a ferry.

As a result, with its gently curving streets of charming red-roofed villas, radiating from a large public garden in classic Anglo-Norman style with a bit of Art Nouveau thrown inDe Haan retains not just the appearance but the air of an elegant Edwardian resort.

Arguably its most famous resident arrived in Albert Einstein and his family lived in De Haan for six months, seeking sanctuary from the Nazis, before fleeing to the United States. These days, to satisfy curious visitors, the small villa where he lived sports a cardboard cut-out of the great man in the window. The tram stop in De Haan. Reluctantly, we climb aboard for the final stop. Described as the St Tropez of Belgium nope, still not kiddingthis is where wealthy bankers and politicians build their holiday homes.

On the doorstep, straddling the Belgian-Dutch border, is the Zwin, a sprawling nature reserve of mud flats, salt pans and sea lavender-fringed dunes.

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Eurostar ; eurostar. In Ostend, the revamped Hotel Bero hotelbero. In Knokke, Hotel La Reserve la-reserve. For more on Flanders and the local attractions, see visitflanders. We urge you to turn off your ad blocker for The Telegraph website so that you can continue to access our quality content in the future. Visit our adblocking instructions. Sun-worshipping on the Belgian Riviera These days the tram is a sleek, efficient affair, and we step off in the centre of Koksijde to meet Linda Ticker, a volunteer guide with the excellent Belgian Coastal Greeter service.

Essentials Getting there Eurostar ; eurostar. Where to stay In Ostend, the revamped Hotel Bero hotelbero. More Information For more on Flanders and the local attractions, see visitflanders. We've noticed you're adblocking. We rely on advertising to help fund our award-winning journalism. Thank you for your support.

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